Tube-Town Forum
Technik => Tech-Talk Soldano => Thema gestartet von: Grimlock am 23.12.2007 15:24
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I'm on the verge of starting to build the Soldano SLO 100. I think I have about all the schematics and layouts for the electronics. But I'm looking for a plan for the chassis. Starting with the dimension. If someone has a drill-plan as well that would be super. Cause I want to do ALL of it "myself". From A to Z. I guess it's a honour-issue ;)
I know this topic might be a repost, but I'm from belgium. I know a little german from watching ZDF or WDR when I was little but I asure you, the mouse and the elephant didn't actually have a "how do I make a soldano" episode. So my german is a little poor to understand all of this
so if someone can help me out, that would be super!
grtz
Dimitri
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Hi Dimitri,
you will find a chassis drawing in the sloclone forum (Layout Archive-->SLO Layout [first posting]). It's part of the file slocomplete.pdf. Unfortunately it has no dimensions but maybe you can take the dimensions from the drawing if it's in scale. My brownsound chassis has a width of 670mm.
All the best,
Joachim
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Thx Joachim
I allready downloaded that a while ago, But the file doesn't give any scales ... that's why I needed to know the dimensions.
Maybe if anyone knew the width of their SLO-shassis...of maybe the size of a drilhole for the tube-sockets...that would get me started I guess. Cause if I knew that...I can derive al the other measurements from that?
thx a lot tough for trying to help me out, dude!
grtz
Dimitri
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As I mentioned above my SLO chassis has a comfortable width of 670 millimeters. However it's a brownsound chassis and was not sure if this is identical to the one in the draft. The original SLO chassis has 640 millimeters and the Weber chassis 563 millimeters (quite small :-\).
So I measured the chassis drawing in Acrobat and it had exactly 563x190x61,7 mm. Looks like a Weber chassis clone.
Joachim
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thx dude!
I'm in the middle of my exams right now so the logical thinking gets a onewayticket to my books and I tend to forget to use it in other situations like this one. So you did the thinking for me...shame on me :-[...but thx! let's hope it's ok that way...otherwise I'll be drilling holes for the tubesockets wich are too small...of to big.
I'm anxious to start...but I have to wait for the PCB's to arive as well as getting my ass to the electronica-shop to buy my components...I hope it has all I need otherwise I'm stuck with mailorder again...and awfull waiting times ^^ i'm not made for waithing.
excited greetings
Dimitri
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Don't worry Dimitri, I spend dozens of hours doing SLO research for my Jo SLO (http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?topic=3292.0). So why no sharing this knowledge with you.
If I can help you in any way please let me know :)
Happy Holidays :guitar:,
Joachim
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haha, I'm again ahead of you! I saw that topic allready thinking " dear god, with all these pictures; I just might pull it off!!
My friend and I are each gonna build one...it might come in handy to work parallel and I allready told him: " damn, If we're ever stuck, we'll ask that joachim guy or Dirk.
tomorrow I'll visit the electronica shop to look for components. And after that, it's just waiting for Dirk so return my mail so I can place my final order for the SLO-pcb's...on the other hand...I should be studying for my exames in january. So it's probably good if it took a while for the PCB's to arive here :D
happy hollidays from all the way in belgium
Dimitri
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So I've got my PCB's, ordered most of the components from Mouser.com and ready to get started, but now i noticed that the layout of the PCB of Tubetown isn't the same as the layout of the one I have on my computer. It means that my Bill Of materials is not compatibel with the tubetown-layout.
Is there someone who can send me a BOM that is compatible with the tubetown layout so I can figure out what the Cx, Cx, Rx, Rx, VRx etc stand for. I think about 50% of the codes are the same, but not all
grtz
dimitri
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I emaild with Dirk and he told me that There are people here on the forum that have a Bill of Materials that is compatibel with the PCB that can be ordered at tubetown. Is there anyone who can upload that BOM so I can start figuring everything out?
kind regards
Dimitri Derwael
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Hi Dimitri,
there is a partlist available, but only in German and with subject to change:
http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3292.0;attach=6019 (http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3292.0;attach=6019)
However the part descriptions and values should be understandable, anyway.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Joachim
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it helps a lot ^^
thx!!
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So far so good! My PCB for the pre-amp is almost finished. But I've got some problems with the powersuply-PCB because some of the components are not declared in the Bill of Materials, So I hope someone could help me out?
it's about C26, C27,C28...also, I can't find what the "V16" stands for?
kindest regards and thanks for the help so far ;)
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ok, V16 is just a rectifier...I should've known that :-\
but someone that can help me out with the capacitors?
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Hi Dimitri,
This is the DC heater supply. V16 ist a reactifier (I used B250/C1500, B40 or B80 are fine as well). C26-C28 are electrolytic caps (4700µF/16V).
Please refer also to the PSU schematic:
http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3292.0;attach=6017 (http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3292.0;attach=6017)
I will update the parts list, soon.
Regards,
Joachim
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thx man! ^^
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So I've made my own SLO chassis (kinda)
I got the measurements from the pdf thx to mister Joachim (if I'm not mistaken?). So in a metal shop near my home I've bought an aluminum plate and got it folded really nicely into the shape of the frame. I adjusted the drilplan from the PDF in Photoshop and made a sticker (with the graphics of the front and back-panel) to stick on the frame. Also bought a spraycan of white paint and this weekend I painted the frame, pasted the sticker and drilled the holes for the front potentiometers. (not all the holes are drilled cause I didn't have that much time on my hands)
total cost: 15 euro metal frame folded and everything + 7,5 for the spraypaint + 25 euro for the sticker = 47,5 euro's...and a lot more work :D I could've saved 7;5 euro's If I just got the sticker printed on a white backgrond instead of a transparant one...
I'll upload a picture as soon as I drilled all the holes etc!
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ok! other than the fact that making your own chassis is a hell of a lot cheaper (about 35 euro's) it takes you a lot more efford and I doubt if it was worth that efford. Anyway, I made some pictures. but hey, if it does what it has to do, I'm ok with it!
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Hey,
it goes up to eleven!!! ;D ;D
Nice Work!
mfg
Chryz
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haha :D it was standard on the PDF that i used to make the sticker :D but cool indeed ;)
I sure hope it'll sound cool too :)
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Wow Dimitri, indeed a great job!
I admire and envy you for your mechanical skills. But I'm afraid that the dimensional drawing was not my piece of work. I'm one of these guys who make themselves life easy and bought a ready-to-go chassis from Stefano ;).
I have some comments on the mounting of the input jack and the switches. I can not clearly identify if the input jack's ground contact is isolated from the chassis or not. If not, it is strongly recommended, to add some insulating washers to this and the other jacks to avoid some nicely humming ground loops. These are examples for the Switchcraft washers:
flat phenolic washer (http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p2012_Switchcraft-S1028-Iso-Scheibe---Benoetigt-S1029.html)
extruded fiber washer (http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p2011_Switchcraft-S1029-Kragen-Scheibe---Benoetigt-S1028.html)
See also the attached picture.
Also I would not recommend to mount the large locking rings of the toggle switches outside of the chassis. If your intension is to preserve the chassis' surface a simple washer will do a good job and will look so much better :).
Cheers!
Joachim
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thx for the tip! but I've got a question about that.
In an other tread from...Cliff I think, he connected the ground from the powerconnector to the chassis. So the chassis is grounded. Now i wonder why it is a problem when the ground from the input jack is connected, in fact, to the ground of the power connector?
might be a dumb question...? is it?
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No, not a dumb question at all - quite the opposite. Yes, you need to connect ground and protective earth on the chassis for security reasons. Well grounding is not a short story, however here is my approach of a (very) brief explanation: due to the existing electrical resistance of the chassis you will have slightly different ground potentials at different places when current flows through the chassis. Only millivolts of course, but these differences are enough to produce a more or less hum in your amp. So it is a not good idea to use the chassis for the ditribution of the ground potential (it is possible but it needs some experience with this issue)
One reliable method to avoid these ground loops is to isolate the jacks from the chassis in conjunction with Mike Soldanos well determined grounding scheme. I strongly recommed to use exactly this grounding scheme in your amp. Some guys who had the intention to "improve" the SLO by their personal illusion of a star ground failed at their attempts to cap Mike Soldano.
(http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3292.0;attach=1714)
Cheers!
Joachim
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so it's about the same effect as when you're playing a gig and you get "electrocuted" when your moutch touch the mic and hands touch your guitarstrings because the PA and your amp are not on the same powercircuit...
and it only gets worse when you're sweating! i presumed it was something like that.
anyway..If I just follow the schematics of the wiring that you posted in an other tread (a pdf), i'll be fine I guess?
credits by the way for my mechanical skillz to my father. If he wasn't such a handy-man, I didn't have the proper equipment to work with. a craftsman is only as good as the tools he can work with. I only hope that my electronic-skills will develope just as good. Doesn't really matter if it "looks" good...it's gotta sound good!!!
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so it's about the same effect as when you're playing a gig and you get "electrocuted" when your moutch touch the mic and hands touch your guitarstrings because the PA and your amp are not on the same powercircuit...
Yep, that's the reason for connecting ground with protective earth. The hum is an other chapter of the story ;)
anyway..If I just follow the schematics of the wiring that you posted in an other tread (a pdf), i'll be fine I guess?
Hmm ??? I can't recall that I published a grounding scheme in pdf format. I posted only the picture with the ground wiring shown above. Speaking from my own experience it works very well.
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I'll use the drawing and the attached PDF. It says "Joachim Muller" on the bottom. I don't recall finding these PDf's anywhere else then on the tubetown forum...strange. You're not joachim Muller maybe?
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Ah okay, you talked about the schematic - yes that's my piece of work. I supposed you meant a dimensional drawing of the chassis. I should read your postings more carefully ;)
But a schematic is not a layout. To avoid ground loops you should follow the ground layout I posted above.
Joachim
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thx for the tip! but I've got a question about that.
In an other tread from...Cliff I think, he connected the ground from the powerconnector to the chassis. So the chassis is grounded. Now i wonder why it is a problem when the ground from the input jack is connected, in fact, to the ground of the power connector?
might be a dumb question...? is it?
Hi there!
I have all the jacks (even the one for the footswitch) isolated from the chassis.
A picture will show this fact.
Greetz cliff!
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that was a tripple quote? :)
I can see it now. I just didn't know that was protected from the chassis!
another question:
what kind of diameter are the wiring? I guess it depends on what current flows trough it. I could calculate the currents I guess, but that would take ages...and...are the wiring wounded or full wiring? also...I've read in an other topic something about silver as wiring?? is'nt cupper/copper/.. just as well?
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that was a tripple quote? :)
I can see it now. I just didn't know that was protected from the chassis!
another question:
what kind of diameter are the wiring? I guess it depends on what current flows trough it. I could calculate the currents I guess, but that would take ages...and...are the wiring wounded or full wiring? also...I've read in an other topic something about silver as wiring?? is'nt cupper/copper/.. just as well?
So, looks quit better? :D
I use 1,0mm silvered copper wire on the power tube sockets and 1,5mm silvered wire for grounding. This 1,5mm wire leads almost from the starground to the speaker jacks. I solderderd the 1 Ohm resistors on this wire for bias measuring. In fact this is one wire. I think in a real SLO they use two wires.
After all i use the silicon covered wire from Dirk.
Hope that helps. Excuse my english.
Greetz Klaus
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euhm...any difference between the silver wire type and regular copper wire?
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euhm...any difference between the silver wire type and regular copper wire?
Don't mix up cables and wire.
I use the cables from Dirk. These are silicone covered, tin-plated copper cables.
The wire I use are silvered copper wires.
Greetz Klaus
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cable = wound?
wire = solid?
where do I use cable and where do I use whire? is there a basic rule I can follow? There are several layouts where they clearly used the solid type, like to connect the bass/treble/dept/...-potentio meters. But all the other wires/cables are covered so I can't see the difference.
it might be hard to say exactly wich ones are wire and wich onces are cable...but maybe if you indicate it by color (the layout by cliff for example) or just tell me a rule I can follow?
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cable = wound?
wire = solid?
where do I use cable and where do I use whire? is there a basic rule I can follow? There are several layouts where they clearly used the solid type, like to connect the bass/treble/dept/...-potentio meters. But all the other wires/cables are covered so I can't see the difference.
it might be hard to say exactly wich ones are wire and wich onces are cable...but maybe if you indicate it by color (the layout by cliff for example) or just tell me a rule I can follow?
Hello!
I use wire (solid) on all octal-sockets. This can be seen on Soldano amps too.
Soldano uses wire for the heating on the preamp tubes as well. I use cables instead.
Hope this helps.
Greetz Klaus
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so my work is finally making progress! I'll put some foto's up in a few days...keep in mind I'm only doing this for the first time so my work isn't even close to the doktor-work as done by "cliff". It's rather sloppy :D. But if it sticks firmly it conducts right? no mather how crappy it looks ^^. A lot of thx to mister cliff though cause your pictures together with the electric schematics made it relatively easy to understand ^^
But since a have a question:
in the electric schematics made by joachim Muller (attached in the topic "Jetzt baut der auch noch einen SLO Clone") there are connections made to "plates" and "screens".
what is meant by that?
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Hi Dimitri,
My schematic of the amp is divided into two sheets (PSU and amp circuit). You will find the labels Plates and Screens on both sheets and you simply need to connect both in your amp's circuit.
By the way - you will find the latest version of my schematics here:
http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?topic=3292.msg26052#msg26052 (http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?topic=3292.msg26052#msg26052)
Regards,
Joachim
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so my work is finally making progress! I'll put some foto's up in a few days...keep in mind I'm only doing this for the first time so my work isn't even close to the doktor-work as done by "cliff". It's rather sloppy :D.
Hi!
The Slo-Clone was my first amp too, sereously!
Greetz Klaus
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The Slo-Clone was my first amp too, sereously!
Same with me ;D. Of course I made modifications to existing amps and there is still a non-finished amp on the shelf but the SLO was my amp build I build from scratch.
Joachim
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Same with me ;D. Of course I made modifications to existing amps and there is still a non-finished amp on the shelf but the SLO was my amp build I build from scratch.
Joachim
Gut, dann erklären wir Deinen Slo-Clone zum "Sauberkeitsgewinner". ;D
Im ernst. Viel sauberer geht ein Aufbau meiner Ansicht nach nicht. Und Dein Fender-Clone steht dem wohl auch in nichts nach und dahat man ja mal richtig wenig Platz.
Viele Grüße, Klaus
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Gut, dann erklären wir Deinen Slo-Clone zum "Sauberkeitsgewinner".
Und ich hatte ein deja-vu, als ich in deinem Amp schauen durfte. Also gibt's keinen Gewinner ;D
Grüße nach HH,
Joachim
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it was actually also the first time "das ich habe gelötet" (to make my first german contribution :D) before this, the furthest I went was making my own guitar cables...my lack of patience might have something to do with it as well. allthough I think this might be the most patient I've ever been :)
I also noticed that by working with my self-made chassis (based on a weber model someone said?) I don't have a lot of room to work in. everything is pretty close and narrow compared to the other chassis it seems. Also I'll have some trouble placing the smallest PCB in the chassis. With the large capacitors on it...the hight is about the same hight as my chassis...so it'll be hard to elevate it from the chassis.
I'm excited though...cause eventhough there are some troubles, everything looks still ok. and though the "löting" might look a little sloppy...I'm learning a lot ^^
another question for someone who wants to answer it ;) :
In the electric scheme, there's a C100 capacitor (1nF) connected to the centerpin of the OD Volume but I can't find that on any of the pictures. Or is this capacitor something like the C9 that gives more "bite" when removed?
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No!
C100 and C9 are completely different in function. C100 gives more bite, whereas C9 is used to tame the fizzy highend.
I hope I´m getting this right:C100 is a High-pass , C9 a low pass.
In my Marshall 2203 I love the 1nf over the gain pot, wihtout it, it´s kinda dull. C9 depends on what kind of sound your after. I think Jo wrote that he left it out.
It depends on your gain setting I think, most highgain amps get more fizzy the higher the gain pot is set.
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In the electric scheme, there's a C100 capacitor (1nF) connected to the centerpin of the OD Volume but I can't find that on any of the pictures. Or is this capacitor something like the C9 that gives more "bite" when removed?
This cap (C100) is known as the bright cap. With that cap at the poti there will be no treble loss when turning back the gain poti. So you will actually obtain more bite when you turn down the poti. But some people dislike this effect and remove the cap. This results in a fatter sound.
C9 provides a treble cut. And - if your amp tends to oscillate in the high gain channel - it will also dampen this effect. Finally the amp will sound more creamy and a bit more compressed with that cap.
Currently my SLO is equipped with a bright cap and I had in mind that I also re-added also C9 some time ago.
As tube-factor mentioned above it is finally a matter of taste ;).
Joachim
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I forgot to mention:
leaving out C100 is the famous Warren haynes mod ;)
Just search in Jo´s "schritt-für schritt" Thread.
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;D
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I did't mean that C9 and C100 were the same...I just ment to ask if C100 was an arbitray (free of choice) cap just like C9...
and so it seems ;)
thx for the info. I think I'll just attach it and later on when it's ready to make some noise I'll just hear what I like best...with or without ^^
thx!
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so! 2 more questions:
first:
the depth control is only attached to the 4 Ohm position in the speaker output selector? why?
second:
the 4th position of the power(? )tubes-sochets are connected trough the 1K/5W to 462V screens...but in the pictures made by Cliff, the 6th positions of all the sochets are also connected...but I don't see that connection anywhere in the electric scheme made by Joachim.
anyone?
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Hi Grimlock,
For the second Q:
Pin 6 is an unused pin at all 6L6 and EL34 tubes and may be used as a random solder point.
It is common to use it for holding the second end of the screen resistor.
So pin 4 is soldered to one end of the resistors and pin 6 to the other.
Then pin 6 of all power tubes are connected with the screen supply voltage.
Greetings Basti
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For the first question:
Sound/effectiveness of presence and depth changes with the tap you connect your NFB to. on 16 ohms tap, depth is more subtile than on 4 ohms.
just search the internet for negative feedback. I think Aikenamps has good information concerning this topic.
regards
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thx metalbasti and tubefactor ;)
another question:
there was a transfo made by the tube amp doktor in an other topic, but it seems even that transfo does not excist anymore
I found this one though:
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/product_info.php?products_id=1551
could anyone tell me weither this one can also do the trick? considering the fact that you just ignore several connections at the primary side of the tranfo...
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Yes it can!
I ordered one and got it for the old price.
The difference between this one and the old one is just that the new one has more taps primary.... and that it costs 15 euros more...
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The difference between this one and the old one is just that the new one has more taps primary.... and that it costs 15 euros more...
yeah...and another 12 euro's shipping cause I live in belgium...thank god I'm starting a job in september :-\ amp-building is't a great hobby for students with little amount of money...
(http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/images/SLO100P2.jpg)
can someone tell me what color is what voltage/ampère? or correct me when I'm wrong:
red = 360V AC
Orange = 60V AC
there should be a 0 connection also?
what are the yellow ones for "bias"?
is fillament 2A and switching 8A or the other way around?
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Hello,
the 6,3V Filament Tap should be the 8A one, because it's for the TubeHeaters and it needs a lot of current! One EL34 needs about 1,5A on a 6,3V supply, e.g.
The Bias Taps (Yellow) should be for the fixed Bias-Supply.
Cheers Micha
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thx!
but what with the 0V connection on the secundare side?
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Hello again,
Normally, if you have a HT-Tap with three cables, the middle one is the Center Tap and gives you the 0V. So in your case it should be the orange cable, and it should be connetcted to Ground. The two Red ones give you HV+ and HV-.
A very good Site for additional information is http://www.valvewizard.co.uk (http://www.valvewizard.co.uk)
Cheers Micha
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so if the orange one is the 0V, then wich one is the 60V tap? Mr " The Tube-Factor"...you've bought this one. Hopefully you can suplly me with the information needed?
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Hi!
I wasn´t sure about the colour code,too. The one on the packaging was different than the one on the website, therefor i asked the service team which one is right. He sent me an email:
Primary:
240V Brown
230V Black
220V Grey
120V White
0V Blue
Secondary:
365V Red
0V Orange
365V Red
Bias Yellow
0V Yellow
Switching White
0V White
6,5V Black (This is filament, i guess he meant 6,3 V here)
0V Black
So the one on their website is the right one..
Hope this helps!
Did you already start building your clone? I´m interested in pictures!
I will start in about two weeks- after my holidays.
It took a damn long time to get all the parts,although there´s a part list...
Still need an OT, Tubes and a few bits and pieces.
Cheers!
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don't you need a 60V tap on the secundary side also?
I've started building yes...I think about 80% of the work is done at this point...I'll make some pictures this afternoon and put them online this evening.
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Yes, the bias one is the 60 V!
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nevermind...the 60V tap is the bias-tap, I just found out...I was to fast with my whining...
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so here are the pictures!
it might look sloppy and it is! but there's no shortcutting or anything wrong with it. so it just looks bad :) but when you turn it around, no one will ever notice :)
I applaude mister Cliff and Joachim for their work. Cause when you look at it, you think " hmmm... I might be able to do this!" but don't be mistaken...you need a steady hand and a lot of patience to do this.
anyway...here's some footage of more sloppy work.
grtz
Dimi
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and some more:
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So I'm trying to figure out wich color is wich compared to the electric scheme...I've added the scheme of the transfo and attached a piece of the electric scheme for the amp. If someone feels like helping me out...don't hesitate!
(http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/images/SLO100P2.jpg)
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So I've figured something out...
The picture I made in the previous post was wrong. The wire color order from upper to lower should be
red1
yellow1
orange (instead of yellow2) -> to ground
red2
black1
black2
white1
white2
that leaves me with yellow2. In the shinrock version of this tranformer, there are 8 wires used for the output and I have 9 wires.
Shinrock only has a 60VAC connection while the TAD-version has a 60VAC and a 0VAC connection (yellow1 and yellow2)
I hope this explenation makes sense? :D
now I was wondering if it was a correct assumption if I connected that 0VAC (yellow2) to the ground?
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so an other assumption:
(http://www.shinrock.com/picture/upload/Image/AnschlussSLO100.gif)
in the shinrock version, the 60VAC is a tap comming from the SAME windings as the 360VAC. That makes it possible to use only one connection to the ground.
in the TAD version (as seen above), the 60VAC-connection has no fysical connection to the 360VAC windings. Therefore, an additional connection to the ground is necessary?
seems possible?
someone please support me in this or I'll feel stupid :D
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Hello
start you question with an opening like "hello" and end them with greatings. This is a good manner, and as i think not only in germany.
Greatings
Martin
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Hello
start you question with an opening like "hello" and end them with greatings. This is a good manner, and as i think not only in germany.
Greatings
Martin
so
"Hello"
and sorry, martin, I didn't ment to offend you or anyone else. It's an open forum (I even started this topic) and I was just brainstorming publicly and I was just enthousiasticly posting around as you might have noticed by the tree posts right after each other. I didn't even expect a hello or goodbey in an answer that anyone would've given me.
But again...it wasn't because of a lack of good manners. I just got carried away in the brainstorm...
The question still stands though, if anyone could verify the things I was talking about in my previous post, it would be very kind.
kind regards
Dimitri
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Hello!
I have to mention, that the white resitors (1K 5W) on your ocktal socktes seem to touch the socketscrews. This could set them to ground. You might fix that.
Greetz Klaus
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Hello
so the brainstorm blasted away the good wishes :devil:
You should make a starground, with some substars. One center of a substar of the complete power supply is at the pin of the first capacitor behind the rectifier. Here you should connect all grounds from the transformer in one point. For every Stage aof the amplifier you should also make a substar.
If you chose the tranformer of TAD, its also possible to connect the ground of the separate ground for the bias, to the substar of the powerstage. You can try both and chose the one with less noise.
At least you connect all centers of every substar in one point. This is the center of the star of the input with the highest gain. here also you should connect the chassis. There are other ways to make a ground sounding ground, but this one works always under every condition and it is easy to explain and understand. So the danger of mistakes is much smaller than other methods.
I for myself build at first (10 years ago) two humming monsters. In this time I started to make stargrounds and never had problems with ist. Later I tested other kinds of grounding, they all worked in one amplifier and in the other not. Only starground is in my experience the alway working sure method. But mostly it's also very complicated to to, many wires you have to solder and it also don't looks very fine, in big amps it's more a nest of a bird.
Have a nice evening
Martin
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hello and thank you martin for that advice, I think I know what you mean! I'll try to do that!
and mister Cliff, those resistors don't touch, I know those would grond, but i've folded te wire enough so it wouldn't hit the screws. maybe I could take some more precautions.
thx to both!
Dimitri
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Hi Dimi,
Is the dark blue wire you have used in this picture for the connection between the imput-jack and V1 and for the connection between the "Normal"-gain-pot and V2 a shielded wire? It looks like a normal unshielded wire.
http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7119.0;attach=9322;image (http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7119.0;attach=9322;image)
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hallo her doktor ;)
yes it's a normal wire ... judging by that comment I suppose that it should be a shielded wire?
you mean like this? (see attached picture) and the core-wire should be the connection I've made with the blue wire...and where should the shielding be connected to?
kind regards
Dimitri
p.s. are there any other wires that should be shielded?
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The shielding has to be connected to the wire eyelets. Take a detailed look at the pictures of Klaus and Joachim´s SLO builds.
http://www.tube-town.de/ttforum/index.php?topic=3292.msg25934#msg25934
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Thx mister Nöres!
Now I just have to find me some wire of that kind cause I don't have that at home...or at least not that small of a diameter...
thx again for the pointer!
grtz
Dimitri
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dear anyone,
I've got a little problem with the shielded wire-method.
For the input: Cliff connected the shielding on both sides of the wire to the ground (those two little black wires).
for the connection to V1 Normal Volume: on the sochet side..are shield AND core connected to the sochet?
the same question for the V2 connection...
maybe it would be more simple if anyone could just explain what the meaning of the method is, and that way I can just figure the way of connection myself?
this troubles me a bit :(
kind regards and sleepy greetings
Dimi
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hello again at 0:15 ... can you tell I'm a student with summerholidays?
I've just had a converstation with my close friend (a electronica-wizard) and he told me all about the meaning of the shielding. maybe he was even TO enthousiastic to explain it all to me :D Thank you maxwell and faraday!
That leaves me with the only questions out of the previous post:
are shield AND core connected to the resistor (V2) ?
are shield AND core connected to the pin or tap at V1?
The connection comming from the input...please explain it, cause i can't see that on the electric scheme and there's shrinking-blabla put around it so I can't see how it has been done...
a good night to all and a pleasant day at work for those who have to go tomorrow. The first of september it's my turn to become a part of the economy...hopefully with a wicked soldano by my side that I can play everyday when I come home *sweet*
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Hi Dimitri,
are shield AND core connected to the resistor (V2) ?
are shield AND core connected to the pin or tap at V1?
Both of your questions can be answered with "yes, if your intention is to short the signal to ground"
To be honest, I'm really scared, as I get more and more the picture that you are trying to build an entire 100W amp just from a couple of photos without any basic knowledge in electronics. You may have noticed the disclaimers on my schematics and I like to point out again, that building an amp from scratch without any experience is a life threatening issue. I'm quite sure you will agree, that this is not a good idea, at all. My strong recommendation to you is to continue this project with an electronic expert who is experienced in working with high voltage cuircuits.
I hope you will understand that my intention is not to bother you, but I feel that we reached a point where it is better to put the cards on the table.
Take care,
Joachim
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Hello
I'm not just following pictures Joachim, I know as well as you do that that would be crazy. I use the pictures only for lay-out purposes. (for example to make sure the ground lay-out is done in a correct manner) It's been three weeks since I'm actively working on this. Not because I'm THAT horrible at it, but because I'm checking an double checking every connection that I make. I'm working on it everyday, and when I'm not working on it and traveling to my girlfriend or band-rehearsal by train, I'm studying the schematics and thinking about how I should do certain things. Not to mention that I've learned a lot in the progress.
And I understand your concern and I also appreciate that...not to mention the truckload of advice you HAVE given me in the past few weeks. And not only you, but everyone else here. So I don't take your advice lightly...
it's been a long way: I've ordered my component in april or march, finished the PCB, ordered an aluminum plate and got it folded for the chassis, bought spray paint, painted the chassis, designed a sticker and got it made for the interface, drilled all the holes for the potentionmeters, input, etc etc...
next, I waited for the summer to have the time to work on this every single day...I even stay home when my friends are out because I enjoy working on it. last saturday I was working untill 2 in the morning on some housing-detail work...
last week I bought the wood for the housing, made a square box and started sanding the edge till they were perfectly round wich (if I may say) worked out allmost perfect. I bought 2 grils for the front and the back, folded the edges myself and spraypainted them...and last thursday I brought the wooden housing to a man who's experienced in making covers for funiture and he would cover the housing in a leather-look kind of fabric. I could've used tolex but this is going to be just a well.
you see...I'm putting my heart a soul into this. I enjoy creating. And I'll put my cards on the table and tell you that I don't know enough about electronics...I never even said that I was experienced. But I HAVE to finish this. and I have to learn how to do that!
I graduated as an electromechanical engineer a year ago and a welding engineer this year. So in fact...I had a a course in electronics, eventhough not nearly enough...BUT (!!) I'm not overconfidenced ... I stay realistic and cautious ever step of the way. If I see a picture and I can't find it in the electric scheme...I ask more info about it.
A professor once told me: " you're diploma doesn't prove that you're an engineer...but it proves that you have to ability to learn a lot" And since he was a brilliant Electric engineer who worked with high voltage applications and thought us about engines and HV-transformers I learned us a lot...I like to believe him.
about the shielded wire issue...It was a simpel question to wich I have an answer now...a simpel "NO". And that's enough for me. it didn't make sense to me either to do that after mister Nöres pointed out my mistake that was in fact pretty stupid...but I couldn't see what was happening because of the black-shrink-blabla ( I don't know the name in english) that's why I asked an explenation. And IN FACT because I don't have electronical experience...I don't rely on my own thinking without anyone backing my ideas up...that's why I ask questions instead of just doing what I think is right
I understand if some of you think I'm playing around...but I'm not :( I take this seriously. Would I have been working on this step by step since april of march if it was a game??!! and if some of you don't want to answer my questions in a way to "protect" me, I will understand. I would do the same thing I guess...I've gotten this far with the help of many people here. So thank you for that...I also think I can bring this to a good ending when I can find answers to my questions here...
but I will find the answers and I will finish it. Without any help here..it'll just take double or tripple the time
but I will finish it
and i will play it someday
Joachim, I'm a modest man and I will not let your advice "Go over me like rain over a duck" but I believe that anyone can do almost anything as long as they are not too proud to ask for help from people who know more then them.
my profound kind regards
Dimitri
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Good morning Dimitri,
thank your for this in-depth answer. But after reading it, I felt that you did not really understand my intention. Your answer sounds even a little bit defiant to my "ears", but there is definitively no reason for that.
It was a simpel question to wich I have an answer now...a simpel "NO". And that's enough for me.
Well, I did not say: "don't ask me any questions!". You know I'm happy to answer all your questions and I did that continuously over the last month and I will continue in doing that. But if someone who is building an amplifier asks me if he should connect signal to ground, I think it is advisable to point out some missing basics. Maybe you are satisfied with a simple "NO", but did you understand why? Frankly, that's not my understanding of "engineering".
Finally I like to repeat my advise to proceed the forthcoming live tests with an electronic expert at your side who is experienced in dealing with high voltage circuits.
Again, I like to assure that I will be happy to answer all your questions. But please consider my advises seriously. Every mistake can be your last when working with high voltages.
Best regards,
Joachim
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Hello,
maybe my " simpel question-simpel aswer"-statement came out a little strong. my apologies for that. a simple "no" would't have been enough ... I woud've wanted a "why?" also cause I need to understand what I'm doing. The problem in the matter was that I had a "theorie" in my head that the shielding should be a closed loop or circuit...but after thinking about it a little more, I knew that was completely irrelevant. I know what the shielding does...and when I realised what the shielding does, it came clear to me that there is no need to connect both ends of the shielding to the ground. Or is it?
I'm not going to plug it in unless om 200% sure that I didn't make any mistakes...
but if it is any relieve: I've got a friend who is an electronics-engineer and I've discussed this issue with hem and agreed that after I've finished my work he's going to come over and go over everything with me to make sure I didn't make any mistakes.
I'll keep on asking question in the meanwhile, though I think they will be limited since I'm almost at the part where the only thing left to do is connect the pcb's...
but thank you for you concern,
kind regards
Dimitri
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...but after thinking about it a little more, I knew that was completely irrelevant. I know what the shielding does...and when I realised what the shielding does, it came clear to me that there is no need to connect both ends of the shielding to the ground. Or is it?
Hi Dimitri,
the shielding should be connected to ground always (!) just at one end, to prevent groundloops within your circuit. Usually you connect this side of the shield to ground, from which the signal comes.
regards, Sören
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Hello mister Nöres/Sören
I know..cause it "recieves" the Electromagnetic fields produced by the other loops/circuits and thus the core wire remains free of any intermitting fields right? and if not connected to the ground...is has no path to conduct the induced electric current to?
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hello and a good evening to all
I've got me an other question again...On my pcb there is hole to connect to " FB Loop (4ohm)" is this for dept control bypassing? or what is it for?
good night
dimi
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Uuuuumh ... aaaaahm ???
Okay, I remember the "FB loop" connector is only used when you don't use the depth option. In this case a lead from the 4 Ohms tap of the OT is connected to "FB loop" (C23 can be left out in this case).
If you are using the depth mod, the 4 Ohms lead will be connected to one end of the the depth pot and the wiper contact leads to the "Depth" connector on the pcb. "FB loop" is not connected in this case. And please don't forget C24 (4,7nF) over the depth pot.
Hope, that's it ... :angel:
Good Night,
Joachim
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Hellow and good morning
it's 1:27h - and still busy putting wiring the PCB - and thank you joachim. I figured it was a way to bypass the dept mod. I just needed to be sure!
now it's really time to sleep
Good Night
Dimitri
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Hello,
about time I'm starting to orde my tubes. I'm looking for a sound that is similar to that of a peavy 5150 (that's why I started building the soldano for starters ;) ) and it seems that this 5150 (or 6505) had 12AX7 types for pre-amp and 6L6 for power amp tubes. I was advised sovtec, but even there I have a range of possibilities.
I'm looking for a sound with a lot of punch to it, but without turning it into a blur when I turn some gain on. Also I would like to have a bit of sustain with minimal gain. I've played a JMC 900 (or 800?) once and if you want some sustain, you need to much gain...wich is ok if you like that encredible sharp horrible marshall sound...but I'm not really looking for that.
I don't know weither tubes have an effect on this, but maybe someone here could give me some advice on that? and on wich types of 6L6 and 12AX7 are most suitable here?
thank you very much
Dimitri
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Hello!
I use 5881 Tubes for V6-V10.
for the preamp I use these ones:
V1: 5751 GE Jan NOS: less Gain but sounds very good
V2: Mesa 7025: It is hard to find a tube that works in this place. I guess you hat to try some
V3-V5: TT 12AX7 (V5 is balanced).
This selection gives an very good crunch an the od fits better to the clean/crunch channel.
Here some Soundsamples (www.myspace.com/hellofadin (http://www.myspace.com/hellofadin) The solo on "Burn it down" is the Slo Clone).
Greetz Klaus
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Hallo :gutenmorgen:
Gefällt mir, wer spielt denn die :guitar: ?
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Hallo :gutenmorgen:
Gefällt mir, wer spielt denn die :guitar: ?
Hallo Loco!
Schön das es Dir gefällt.
Das Solo beim ersten Song spielt unser Leadgitarrero und beim zweiten mache ich das.
Gruß Klaus
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Das Solo beim ersten Song spielt unser Leadgitarrero und beim zweiten mache ich das.
Cool ;D. Gefällt mir auch!
Gruß, Joachim
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Here some Soundsamples (www.myspace.com/hellofadin (http://www.myspace.com/hellofadin) The solo on "Burn it down" is the Slo Clone).
amp sound ist schwer in ordnung ;)
endlich mal eine frau mit einer rockigen stimme, das gefällt mir total.
etwas mehr text würdet ihr vertragen, wenn ich das sagen darf. aber ich weiß selbst
daß texten sauschwer ist
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amp sound ist schwer in ordnung ;)
endlich mal eine frau mit einer rockigen stimme, das gefällt mir total.
etwas mehr text würdet ihr vertragen, wenn ich das sagen darf. aber ich weiß selbst
daß texten sauschwer ist
Ja, der Ampsound passt. Allgemein ist der Sound (meiner mittlwerweile Ex-Kapelle) immer ganz nett gewesen.
Die eine Gitarre wurde im Übrigen auf einem winzigen Fender Transenamp eingespielt.
Der hat aber einen so guten Sound, das man das kaum merkt.
Gruß Klaus
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hello to he or she who wants to read it:
Tuesday - 2:45 AM - Soldano SLO100 finished
next week I'll bring it to a "tube-amp wizard" that fixes, builds, adjusts,...tube amps as a profession. He'll be installing the tubes as well as adjusting the bias. And at the same time he agreed to check for mistakes I could've made. In my last control-step, I've found 2 mistakes...and I went trough it very touroughly. So I don't really know if there could be any more mistakes? God..damn... I'm exhausted. I hope my amp works cause it feels like I've spend my entire holiday on building it...I wouldn't know what to do if it didn't work :(
at least I have the pride to have build on ONE thing for about 4 weeks...sometimes untill 3 0'clock in the morning. THAT'S dedication!
I've added a picture of how it looks like when finished...and yes, I've made a soldano logo...and I also know that's the right thing to do. After making it, I realised that it was "NOT DONE" to put a soldano logo on something i've made myself. But I've spend 2 hours on making that logo...2 HOURS....So I'm using it.
good night to everyone. I'll let you know if it's back from the shop.
grtz
Dimitri
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Good Morning Dimitri!
Your amp looks outstanding. An excellent piece of work! I will keep my fingers crossed for a flawless commissioning. But - as I had the privilege to observe the careful implementation - I'm confident that no serious issues will occure. However, I strongly recommend not to say "Amp finished" until it will have succesfully survived its first weeks of operation ;D. Be prepared for a couple of minor issues ;).
Regards,
Joachim
P.S.: .. what about some chassis pics? ;D
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hello
and thank you joachim for the nice comments :) it really means something to me :)
anyway:
some issues I had/have
-The chassis is rather low and that makes the big capacitors on the PSU almost reach the top/or bottom of the chassis. So I had to fix that by working with a minimal stick-out of the components and wires on the bottom of the PSB and placing rubber pieces beneath it to level is from the chassis.
-i had to isolate the impedance selector from the chassis or my incomming signal would've gone directly to the ground
-there's a resistor betweent the PSU and the bias tap...I didn't see it in anyone's pictures, but it was on the electric scheme so I implemented it.
-when I was told to use shielded wire, I only had coax to work with...but it does the trick also ...though it looks horrible. on send and return, and an other wire I bought some normal sized shielded wire :)
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and some more
I hope it looks fine...to me it looks fine...I'm excited about it. But the fact that I can bring it to soomeone who understands tubeamps puts me at ease. and confident that it will work. Lets hope for more than a week ;)
kind regards
Dimitri
p.s. visuals of the surrounding room are free :D can you tell that I used to skateboard? ^^
p.p.s and when my soldano works perfectly I'll be rocking out even harder then in the last picture : :guitar:
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Hi Dimitri,
did you use something like this (http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/product_info.php/info/p1548_Kabeldurchfuehrung-10-mm.html) in the chassis holes where you put through the leads of your transformers? I'm not sure from your picture so I just ask. They are important for safety reasons. Without them the isolation of the leads could be rubbed away on the metal edges.
Also the distance of the solder points of your PSU board to the chassis is really very low...
Otherwise really nice work ;).
But one other thing that bugs me a bit... You have a proven schematic and a layout. Why don't work more with that (as you just did) instead of comparing with pictures of others all the time? They might have done things you can't quite follow, or in another way, or that might be even just WRONG. Pictures can lie ;), especially if you're not that experienced. That is in no way targeted to you Joachim or Cliff, this is just a warning in general. Sorry if that was too harsh, but I got this impression from your previous posts.
Regards, Volker
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Hello,
I didn't put the protection-things (I couldn't find them) in the holes but as you might have seen that I have placed several layers of shrinking-tubes (I don't know the name) around the wires for protection.
I know that the distance between the psu and the chassis is very low. But i've carefully removed the stickout with a very fine file to the strickt minimum. That was because I had no choise because I didn't knew that the capacitors (the big ones) were THAT big. Otherwise i would've made the chassis a bit higher.
I looked at the pictures of cliff and joachim because they're actually just a relatively good example of how i should do it in a way that I don't turn my layout into a complete mess. Also because of the fact that my psu is that close to the chassis i had to place the wires in a completely other way then cliff and joachim anyway.
don't look at it as if I just copied what they did, but I more or less used it as a "guideline" that I tried to follow but when that wasn't possible just look for an other way. I didn't just brainlessly followed what they did. If what they did, didn't make sense to me at first. I asked someone to clearify.
thx for you questions and remarks though...it makes me feel like someone really takes interest in what I did O0
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Scary , Scary,
no rubber grommet.....
Works fine when there is no vibration from the box.
But after a while you can get fireworks.
Make sure that the cables are isolated against the chassis, where they are going through...
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hello scared mister carlitz ;)
today I'm bringing it to the tube-amp-mister that is going to check it for mistakes and adjust the bias etc etc and I'll ask him if he had those "grommets" and other wise I'll just have to fabricate me something ingenious that has the same effect ;)
grtz
Dimitri
edit: I've just brought the amp to www.N-e-l.be and I got a compleet lesson in tube-amps :D and it seems he's an official dealer of TAD-products. At a first look he said: " I sometimes get amps like these and I have to say immediately to just brake it down and start over, but this one looks very good" So I'm confident that I'll play it one day ^^
I'll keep you up to date and place some soundsamples online as soon as I get it back...wich is by the end of next week...*siked*
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Very good.
Its only little work todo to get it right.
Congratulations for making it more safe!
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hello!
I've got a phonecall this afternoon from the tube-man and he told me that the soldano is fully operational O0 though he had to put 6 hours of work in it...*sigh* I guess I wasn't all that great as an amp-builde :-[
but it works!
saturday I'm picking up...I'm anxious to hear it ^^
good night
Dimitri
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Hey Dimitri!
What about your clone? ???
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it's doing fine :D I've played two gig's with it so far and people were amazed with the improvement of our sound since the last gig we've played. With the addition of a harley benton cab (V30 speaker) to both guitarists (the other guitarist plays a tripple X from Peavey) we made a huge step forward.
A couple of weeks ago I didn't get any sound anymore and it seemed that the entrance-plug of my effect-loop was ... de-connected. (you know, it connects trough, mechanicly, because it touches on and other, but it got folded apart so the two legs didn't touch anymore) All my entrance-plugs were from switchcraft, exept that one cause I bought it afterworts in an electronica-shop. And It seems that one especially was rubbish.
Other than that, I really like the sound. I've spend some time to find the correct sound cause in the beginning I had a lot of boost from the higher tones. That made it really unpleasand to listen at. But I turned down the tone-switch on my guitar, reduced the treble on my amp and used the presence to adjust to a more "sharp" tone. It seems that an EMG 89-element is the culprit here. But with tone-adjustment, it's all fixed.
So today I have that typicle rumbeling-hardcore sound. Not to much gain(!!) about 3/11 , 1/2 on bass, 3/4 on middle and a little less than 1/2 for treble. Tone on guitar almost reduced to zero and presence at about 3/4.
For clean -sound I used "not bright" and "crunch" with a little bit of gain (4/11). The clean and distortion really fit great together. I don't have a really got microphone to record some sounds, but I'll give it a try in the next week.
sorry for not updating...I've started working the first of september and it's been really busy since then. As a working class hero, you seem to have NO FREE TIME at all :D
kind regards
dimitri
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another question.
In the SLO-plan...when you reduce or remove C9 it says you have more "bite" to the signal...what does "more bite" mean?
kind regards
Dimitri
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what does "more bite" mean?
more treble, not that soft as it is with C9 ... just try it.
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brrr....not what I need...treble enough in the output.
Thx though!
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;D
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Guten Morgen,
ich hoffe meine Frage passt hier mehr oder weniger zum thema weil ich dafür eigentlich keinen Eigenen Thread eröffnen möchte.
Nach langem hin und her habe ich mich für mein nächstes Projekt für den SLO entschieden.
Der Mesa ist wegen der Aufwendigen switching Matrix und meines momentanen Soundgeschmack raus.
Und der Müller Classic ist erstmal vertagt wegen dem Custom Chassis und Custom NT.
Nun bin ich nach viel viel Einarbeitungszeit dabei mir die Teile für den SLO zu beschaffen. Jetzt kommt das Problem:
Wo bekomm ich ein Chassis her?
Brownsound wäre ideal aber irgendwie kommt da keine Antwort auf meine Anfragen und der Shop ist offline bzw. kaputt. Hat der Betreiber seine Geschäfte eingestellt oder wie schaut es da aus? Hat hier vielleicht jemand einen heißen Draht nach Italien und hat da ein paar Infos für mich?
Gibt es noch alternativen dazu in Europa?
Weber und C3 sind mir eigentlich schon zu teuer wegen dem Versand und dem Zoll.
Würd mich über jeden Tip freuen!
Gruß Andy
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Hi Sinner,
Brownsound wäre ideal aber irgendwie kommt da keine Antwort auf meine Anfragen und der Shop ist offline bzw. kaputt. Hat der Betreiber seine Geschäfte eingestellt oder wie schaut es da aus? Hat hier vielleicht jemand einen heißen Draht nach Italien und hat da ein paar Infos für mich?
Gibt es noch alternativen dazu in Europa?
Ich habe bei Brownsound am 19.05.2011 2x Slo Triple EQ Chassis bestellt. Außer einer Antwort, daß er gleich versendet, herrscht seitdem Funkstille. Mittlerweile 7 (!) weitere Mails wurden glatt ignoriert. :o >:( Ein sehr seltsames Geschäftsgebaren, auch wenn er das "nur" als Hobby betreibt.
Grüsse, Gunter
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Hallo Andy,
dass das mit dem Weber Chassis etwas teurer ist kann ich verstehen, hab mit Zoll und Versand ca 180,- Euro gelöhnt,
aber Stefano sollte eigentlich auf die Mail antworten, sie sollte halt möglichst auf Englisch sein, was mir selber etwas schwer liegt,
auf Facebook antwortet er auch wenn man an seine Pinnwand schreibt, nur ordern geht halt dort nicht,
info ät brownsound dot it sollte alles ankommen
Gruß Ronald
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Hi
Ich gehe mal davon aus, dass es ab heute wieder besser wird ;) Wer im SLOClone Forum aufmerksam mitgelesen hat, weiß, dass Stef die letzten Wochen mit einer größeren Anzahl Chassis im Verzug war (ca 30 Stck).
So ein Hobby hätte ich auch gern ;)
Gruß, Stone
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Hi Ronald,
Ich schreibe in (verständlichem) Englisch. Aber nicht mal eine Zeile, wann die Teile kommen, das ist echt schwach.
Grüssse, Gunter
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Hi,
wenn du willst (und die technischen Möglichkeiten hast, bzw. Metallbaufirma um die Ecke) kann ich dir nen Bohrplan für das SLO Chassis schicken.
Bohren, Blechkanten, lackieren lassen, fertig. Hat mich Materialmäßig 7 Euro gekostet...
Danach z.B. mit Waterslide-Folie beschriften, da kostet eine auch nur 50 Cent, sieht wie ich finde klasse aus (wenn man danach mit Klarlack drübergeht) und ist eben günstig.
Viele Grüße
Daniel
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Das klingt schonmal super. Da brauch ich wenigstens nicht einen neuen Lieferanten suchen und seine arbeiten schauen ganz passabel aus.
Hab ihm heute früh nochmal eine Mail geschickt und schreib ihn mal bei Facebook an wenn ich zuhause bin :)
Hab natürlich in englisch geschrieben, kann kein italienisch^^
@Stone: Wie kommst du darauf, dass es bergauf geht? Hatte er geschrieben, dass er die 30 abgearbeitet hat oder wie soll ich das verstehen? (sorry hätte es ja selber nachgeguckt aber slocloneforum ist auf der arbeit gefiltert)
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@basementmedia: ganz ehrlich: Ich kenne niemanden, der das für mich machen kann und ich trau mir das mit der Beschriftung nicht zu.
Hab es schonmal auf meinem Anvil probiert und es sah hinterher nicht ganz so schön aus wie die Chassis von Brownsound.
Ich mein man kann es lesen aber man gewinnt keinen Schönheitswettbewerb.
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Hallo
@Daniel: hm ... würdest Du mir den Plan zusenden? stone AT stones-amp-inn DOT de ? Danke :) :bier:
@Sinner: im SLOClone Forum ist 'nen Projekt angelaufen, wo sich insgesamt 15 oder 16 Leute beteiligt haben (u.a auch ich). Die Chassis und Platinen dazu sollen heute bzw. gestern ausgeliefert worden sein; Stefano hat die Chassis gemacht und irgendwas war vor ein paar Wochen wohl schiefgelaufen ... darüber hinaus haben einige "Teilnehmer" gleich zwei oder drei "Bausätze" geordert. Am WE wurde dann verkündet, dass die Chassis fertig seien - allerdings hat Olaf / Düsentrieb wohl einen extrem guten Draht zu Stefano.
Gruß, Stone
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Sehr schön. Ich hoffe das kommt bald mal so langsam in die Gänge.
Immer wenn ich meine Gitarre in der Hand hab hab ich unheimlich bock drauf einen amp zu bauen. Vielleicht sollte ich das mit dem spielen sein lassen und nur noch bauen ;D
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@Daniel: hm ... würdest Du mir den Plan zusenden? stone AT stones-amp-inn DOT de ? Danke :) :bier:
Mach ich heut abend.
Viele Grüße
Daniel
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:danke:
Gruß, Stone
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Ah wie Cool gerade eben ist die Bestätigung von Stefano gekommen :-)
Jetzt muss ich nur noch ein wenig Cash für eine Bestellung bei Dirk zusammenkratzen und es kann losgehen :)
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Ah wie Cool gerade eben ist die Bestätigung von Stefano gekommen :-)
Immerhin er lebt! :devil:
Grüsse, Gunter
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Das beste ist ja auch noch, das Stefano das Gehäuse jetzt einen cm tiefer baut als früher.
:)
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na klar isser Fit, hab ich doch gesagt, er hat mir heut auch zurück gepostet,
der eine cm mehr in der Tiefe klingt nicht viel iat aber schon hilfreich, ich hatte bei
meinem Slo das Weber Chassis verwendet welches ja schon den cm hatte und
mit der PSU Platine und den Buchsen und Schalter war es schon sehr eng,
ein cm weniger hmm
Gruss Ronald
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Hab gestern das Chassis bekommen und es schaut einfach super aus!
Alles sauber gebogen und gebohrt. An den Seiten ist es sogar geschweißt. Hab da schon welche gesehn ohne aber das hier schaut super aus. Die Beschriftung ist ebenfalls fehlerfrei. 2-3 kleine Macken im Lack sind aber drin...stört allerdings nicht sonderlich.
Hab leider noch nicht alle Teile da um zu prüfen ob alle Bohrungen so ok sind.
Die Potilöcher sind aber wie bereits von anderen berichtet zu groß aber die Sockel sitzen auf jeden Fall 1 A in den Bohrungen.
Warte nur noch auf mein Trafoset von Ingo und mein Gehalt um auch den Rest bei Dirk zu ordern. Mein Conradbesuch steht auch dieses WE an.
Im Großen und Ganzen freu ich mich schon riesig auf das Projekt :)
gruß Andy
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Ich freue mich mit dir Andy, bei mir tut sich immer noch nichts. :'(
Grüße, Gunter
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Hi Andy,
die Bohrungen sind von ihrem Durchmesser her garantiert für die "amtlichen" 3/8" (ca.9.52mm) US- Potis gedacht.
Welchen Durchmesser haben sie denn bei Deinem Chassis?
Gruß
Jacob
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Ich hab sie noch nicht nachgemessen aber ich vermute, dass du Recht hast.
Ich denke aber, dass die Alphas sich auch irgndwie positionieren lassen. Bin ja schließlich nicht der erste, der das probiert :)
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Die 24mm Alphas gibt es auch mit dem klassischen, authentischen 3/8" Gewindedurchmesser.
Und wenn Du die verwendest, dann passt das genau ;)
EDIT: könnte aber sein, dass man das mit der "Lochgröße" in Italien nicht so eng sieht... sind ja auch Südländer ;D
Gruß
Jacob
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ich stopf da einfach die 0815-Alphas rein. Wird schon gehen.
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Klar geht das (zumal Du die Potis wahrscheinlich schon hast).
BTW: soweit ich weiss, gibt's im TT- Shop sowieso lediglich die 24mm Alphas mit dem 8mm Gewindedurchmesser ???
Gruß
Jacob
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Klar geht das (zumal Du die Potis wahrscheinlich schon hast).
BTW: soweit ich weiss, gibt's im TT- Shop sowieso lediglich die 24mm Alphas mit dem 8mm Gewindedurchmesser ???
Gruß
Jacob
die passen schon, die hat doch Joachim in seinem vorbildlichen Aufbau auch in seinem Chassis von Stefano verwendet, und wir sicherlich alle auch ;D
Gruß Ronald
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Hi Ron,
klar, 8mm in 9,5mm passt ja irgendwie immer...
Es wundert mich halt sehr, dass gerade Du als Uhrmacher sowas sagst- wo es doch hier um die Passgenauigkeit geht :devil:
Es grüßt
Jacob
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nicht an alles stellen, aber ein einigen geht man immer nach dem Motto " passt, wackelt, hat Luft " ;)
Gruß Ron